Optimus prime MP10 Masterpiece Processing

Now, we are taking on the Transformers Optimus Prime MP10 Masterpiece. This OP version was black in the beginning, instead of its classic red semblance, and I've included the original photo in this post. Back when this model was first released, I wasn't prepared for its listed price at that time. I waited, hoping for the option to buy the figure separately without the cargo compartment, but that didn't happen, a cheaper black OP version came out instead. So I decided to make the purchase with the intention of "reverting" the black OP to the original crimson state.

Metallic finish has become stale to me, probably due to overindulgence in my past projects, therefore this time, I resolute to a rather matte finish to achieve a pristine and more realistic effect.

Let's dive right in and take a look at the processing:

Painting tools and material:

Color - Model: Mr Color Red.

Thinner - To reduce density of paint material. The spray gun requires a certain consistency of the paint in order to function properly. It won't work if the paint is too thick.

Spray gun - Model: Mr Hobby 0.3mm size cap 

I won't have many images of the mint state black OP as I've already disassembled it and spray-coated the loose parts by the time pictures were taken. Here are a couple.

Repaint process:

Whenever we want to change the color, regardless of the color, prior to the attempt, we must first prime with a white base coat, especially when working with black here. Without this preceding step, the outcome will be considerably shaded, stifling the brilliance in the color, hence a dulling result.

As shown in the pictures, the foremost step is to protect the areas that are not meant to be painted. They should be covered up with tissue, paper or layered with tape, to prevent unwanted staining. 
After applying the protective cover, the next step is to spray on the white primer, and then left to dry. The white coating has to dry completely before applying the red top coat, or whatever top coat desired. 

Basically, by referring to the pictures, you can see that the spraying was done in different segments, one part includes the arms, head and torso, all of which were initially black, and finished in new color coating (white base primer in advance) -- blue to the head, and primarily red for the body and limbs.

Touch up details
Upon completion of covering and spraying, many areas require necessary touching up due to the size, shown in one of the pictures that displays the chest area here. Looking at the internal fragments in the chest, the parts that supposedly resemble chrome components were coarsely made with unappealing plastic material. This has been a common down side of Hasbro -- producing figures out of cheap looking plastic, lacking in visual attractiveness.

Since it is difficult to color coat tiny parts by spraying, parts like these would have to be hand brushed. Hand painting is a testing on skills. Trivial as it may seem, it's crucial to have a firm grip, and smart choices of applicators, for example appropriate bristle sizes, 0.7mm for wide and 0.5mm for narrow surfaces respectively. Refinement of these elementary details differentiates work completed with a professional attitude from those that were done perfunctorily.

Enough said, the before and after pictures makes a clear statement. Silver or gold are added on to the supposedly "metal" parts to bring out the details and show finesse. Mr Color is the regular brand I use for both silver and gold paint, using appropriate paint brushes.

The original black

Upon completion of the painting, the next step would be the lacquer finish, serves as a protecting coat, as well as making the colors more prominent. This step is especially crucial since action figure toys like Transformers tend to be maneuvered a lot when turning into different forms.

After we're done with coating the lacquer, the final step would be the ink-lining. Basically this is tracing out the intricate patterns of the machinery to allow the mechanical details to pop, creating a sophisticated illusion. This is demonstrated in one of my pictures where I was working with the hand/arm. I worked out details such as presenting the outer shell in red, and distinguishing the machinery in silver with tints of gold. The main color combination for this piece was basically silver and gold.

For the ink lining, I choose the black ink from Tamiya, a small container of it would suffice since I'll have it thinned out by mixing in lighter fluid from Zippo (it's crucial not to use the same type of regular thinner which I will explain later) and make a big tub of diluted ink with it.

This would then be applied on to parts where black is required. I apply the lining by merely dipping a brush into the thinned out ink and dot the bristles directly on the areas where the black lines are needed. The paint seeps into the crannies of the mechanical structure creating the black lines yet the color would be thin enough that it doesn't shade the surrounding. No need for physical painting or drawing out lines since the cracks does it all naturally.

As compared in the pictures, a clear difference between the arm with ink lining VS the one without; ink lining creates a more realistic impression with the layering effect.

Even if you did err a little while applying the ink lining, for example accidentally splotching the sides, a bit of the Zippo lighter fluid would easily wipe off the ink blotch, but would not smudge the other colors as those were thinned out with thinner prior. This is why I've mentioned earlier that it is crucial to use a different thinning base instead of the same thinner we used for the other paint colors. The two different thinning base prevented the ink and colors from blending together. So it is absolutely safe to wipe the ink without fear of chipping off the other paint. With this benefit of using lighter fluid in place, a realistic effect would be a breeze since ink lining can be easily applied to anywhere needed.